Buro predicts: what to expect at the February womenswear shows
Next season, while the boys raid our closets for their turn at bohemianism, it may just be time for us to pack away our flouncy, diaphanous pieces in favour of a more austere approach - sharp tailoring, masculinity and utilitarian dressing that whispers of a military trend on the horizon. Read on for more.
1. Genderless collections
The Calvin Klein presentation saw the likes of Mariacarla Boscono and Gemma Ward sent down the runway among the male models, in men's suiting worn over bare skin for both genders. There were the long-line, dress-like tunics at Acne, skirts at Givenchy and Maison Martin Margiela and the Gucci offering (as per every Alessandro Michele-designed collection before it) that included an embroidered, hot pink bomber, fur capes and liberty floral suits. Even in the world of campaigns, Daria Werbowy was appointed the face of both the women's and men's collections for AG Denim. While gender fluidity and borrowed wardrobes have been enjoying growing acceptance in recent times, the next step is perhaps one that sees gendered fashion codes discarded entirely.
2. More is more
The macro-sized, wide-leg pants at Dior and Dries Van Noten began popping up on the women walking the men's catwalk at Burberry and Agie & Sam, as did the exaggerated, elongated hemlines. These, in combination with the almost comically super-sized knapsacks at Loewe, the cocoon-shaped outerwear at Walter Van Beirendonck and the oversized Muppet shearling coats at Coach suggests there are big things to come.
3. Bowie Tributes
The death of one of fashion's most oft-cited style icons mid-fashion week left many designers scrambling to pay homage. There was the silver glitter under the eyes of the male models at Burberry Prorsum recalling Ziggy Stardust, the Costume National collection entitled, 'Under Pressure' and Donatella Versace closing her space-themed show with 'Ground Control To Major Tom'. Given the slightly longer lead time before the women's shows, we're sure to see plenty of posthumous Bowie sightings. Will it be the bold, shiny spandex of Ziggy Stardust, the lightning bolt across the eye of Aladdin Sane or the sharp tailoring of the Thin White Duke?
4. A New Uniform
Following on from designers' responses to growing anxiety amid our tumultuous times at the menswear shows, the flower child dreamer of the past few seasons is folding up her silks, hanging up her tassels and turning towards functionality and utility. As seen in the men's collections, we predict a focus on high-performance fabrications and military-inspired details for the modern, urban warrior.
Moving on from many seasons spent swinging between the '60s and '70s, the menswear shows introduced hints of an aristocratic tendency through opulent decorations and baroque/rococo influences. The silk paisleys at Alexander McQueen and the Faberge-inspired fabrics and intricate embellishments at Balmain suggest we may be seeing heavy, intricate jacquards and brocades and looks weighed down with heavy embellishment.
6. Cowgirls and Indians
Taking direct inspiration from both The Revenant and The Hateful Eight, the menswear collections were rich in south-west references, from rhinestone cowboys and bolo ties to hunters draped in raw shearling and ponchos finished in calfskin or artisanal embroidery. Expect to see dusty desert palettes, littered with Stetson's and cowboy boots.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection