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Let's get one thing straight - there was nothing subdued about yesterday's Gucci Cruise collection. The second offering from creative director Alessandro Michele was unashamedly retro, offering a triumphant glimpse into a new future for the Italian label.

New York's West 22nd street was shut down specially for the show and from the first shot of the models emerging out of a building across the street, it was clear the slick sophistication of Frida Giannini's direction is now firmly a thing of the past. Opening with a '70s-inspired chevron printed dress, Michele's Cruise 2016 line was an obvious continuation of autumn/winter '15's joyful eclecticism. From the bow and fur detailing to the kitschy and eccentric prints, each look was as diverse and colourful as the next.

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While '70s influences were abundant and the shorter hemlines called to mind minidresses of the '60s, Michele added subtle nods to Gucci's equestrian heritage by trimming sweaters and dresses with the famous red and green stripe. Accessories such as headscarves, cat-eye spectacles and floral corsages kept the quirk factor high, and the lace-up shoes festooned with bows and pom poms were an inspired touch.

In an overall sense, the mood was vintage glamour, but Michele also played to the androgynous spirit currently sweeping through the fashion industry by sending both male and female models down the oriental carpeted runway. And judging by the smile on Anna Wintour's face as Alessandro took his walk down the runway, we're guessing the collection has every important fashion editor's absolute attention.

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