PFW recap: Vaccarello’s debut and Jacquemus’ triumph
SS ’17 in Paris
We may struggle to pronounce his name properly, but Jacquemus is certainly in no danger of being overlooked. Simon Porte Jacquemus' collection for his namesake label struck a dramatic chord in the kick-off to Paris Fashion Week with an architectural-meets-Amish vibe that was fresh and innovative.
Showing just 32 concise looks, Jacquemus topped off each look with flat-brimmed straw hats, some of which were tied coquettishly under the neck the way a schoolgirl would wear it. With a focus on exaggerated sleeves, peaked shoulders and oversized wide-leg trousers, there was a striking juxtaposition between sexy and stitched-up prairie girl - and it was this exact pull between two opposing camps that made the collection feel utterly modern and most importantly, now.
As one of the most eagerly awaited debuts on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, Anthony Vaccarello's first outing for Saint Laurent was always going to be controversial. Would he carry on the sexed-up cool kid imprint left by predecessor Hedi Slimane, would he turn back to the Yves Saint Laurent archives or would be strike out on his own? The answer, it seems, is a little bit of everything. Taking a leaf out of Slimane's final ready-to-wear show for Saint Laurent, Vaccarello brought back the '80s power shoulders, one-shouldered dresses and leather minis from A/W '16. Another glam rock moment, for sure, the clothes were cut with signature Vaccarello sexiness - sheer lace, low-cut sweetheart necklines and perilously short skirts.
Of course, in a nod to his new house's illustrious past, Vaccarello added his version of the Le Smoking tuxedo suit. He made his mark by slashing off sleeves, cropping jackets and cutting out shoulders, and like Slimane, Vaccarello favours a lean silhouette. Trousers were slim legged or skinny, jeans were cropped and low-slung, and the only real room for volume lay in the sleeves. Overall, it was a safe collection that stayed firmly in the vicinity of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent legacy. We can only wait to see what else Vaccarello has in mind for the brand moving forward.
But in the meantime, drink in the sight of Charlotte Gainsbourg, Jane Birkin and Lou Doillon sitting front row, channelling three generations of effortless French fabulousness.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection