1. Melancholic (Analytical and introverted) 
3.1 Phillip Lim

A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5

A study in classic Phillip Lim, the combination of refined, sporty urban wear in a series of sleeveless shirting, cropped trousers, polo necks and fanny packs in what I like to refer to as a '70s pantry palette - avocado, mustard yellow, pimento and chocolate - is sure to please devotees of his signature style. However, one question mark remains above Lim's employment of one of sartorial history's most controversial styling cues - socks with sandals. Is this going to be a thing now? Will dads everywhere suddenly prove prophetic and hip? Only time will tell.

2. Sanguine (Optimistic and social)
Tommy Hilfiger

A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5

All aboard the T.H. Atlantic! Captain Hilfiger invited the fashion crowd to the mooring of his cruise liner parked beside the runway at yesterday's show, before a parade of chic travelers disembarked in a borrowed-from-the-boatmen collection of nautical stripes, sailor shirts and captains coats mixed with shearling leather jackets, preppy school jumpers, tea dresses and tiaras, mixing for a rebellious debutante vibe.

3. Choleric (Energetic and chaotic)
Jeremy Scott and Rosie Assoulin

A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5

Scott is known for bold, pop culture-driven collections saturated in blinding hyper colour and cheeky details - and A/W '16 was no exception. Parading down the runway replete with go-go boots, bouffant blow-outs and star sequins, (masquerading under the eyes as beauty spots) came Scott's army of Priscilla Presley-meets-The Beverley Hillbillies, all crazy prints and fun fur. Between playful cowboy elements - yolked shirtdresses and cowboy boots in loud colours, pink and black cowprint fur - there was tinsel outerwear, novelty pin embellishment and prints of pin-ups, '90s cartoons (Ren & Stimpy and Johnny Bravo) and cheeky Fender guitar placement. In Scott's own words, "It's not about good taste, it's about having fun."

A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5

Also tending toward playful erraticism (and with a self-confessed lack of a single narrative), Rosie Assoulin architected a collision of colour, drape and volume with the kind of finesse and sophistication that only she can. Luxurious materials were the hero of the show, in particular a patent neoprene A-line maxi skirt, a patchwork sequined bodice and liquid silk jacquard suiting with velvet trim. The superhero? A pair of stop sign red overalls with a floor-sweeping cape.  

4. Phlegmatic (Relaxed and quiet)
The Row

A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5

An offering of comfortable luxe - astrakhan coats, plush velveteen and a collection of fine fabrics realised in deepest marine, cement, sanguine red, nut brown and lilac. Proportions were generous, materials were exquisite, lengths were long - puddling at the feet of trousers. Like the season's before, this collection is the sartorial equivalent of a swan - serene and elegant to look at, with most of the effort unseen below the surface; A timeless capsule of quiet luxury.

Website: divyabala.co
Instagram: @divya_bala
 

A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5