A/W '16 recap: the multiple personalities of NYFW day 5
1. Melancholic (Analytical and introverted)
3.1 Phillip Lim
A study in classic Phillip Lim, the combination of refined, sporty urban wear in a series of sleeveless shirting, cropped trousers, polo necks and fanny packs in what I like to refer to as a '70s pantry palette - avocado, mustard yellow, pimento and chocolate - is sure to please devotees of his signature style. However, one question mark remains above Lim's employment of one of sartorial history's most controversial styling cues - socks with sandals. Is this going to be a thing now? Will dads everywhere suddenly prove prophetic and hip? Only time will tell.
2. Sanguine (Optimistic and social)
All aboard the T.H. Atlantic! Captain Hilfiger invited the fashion crowd to the mooring of his cruise liner parked beside the runway at yesterday's show, before a parade of chic travelers disembarked in a borrowed-from-the-boatmen collection of nautical stripes, sailor shirts and captains coats mixed with shearling leather jackets, preppy school jumpers, tea dresses and tiaras, mixing for a rebellious debutante vibe.
3. Choleric (Energetic and chaotic)
Jeremy Scott and Rosie Assoulin
Scott is known for bold, pop culture-driven collections saturated in blinding hyper colour and cheeky details - and A/W '16 was no exception. Parading down the runway replete with go-go boots, bouffant blow-outs and star sequins, (masquerading under the eyes as beauty spots) came Scott's army of Priscilla Presley-meets-The Beverley Hillbillies, all crazy prints and fun fur. Between playful cowboy elements - yolked shirtdresses and cowboy boots in loud colours, pink and black cowprint fur - there was tinsel outerwear, novelty pin embellishment and prints of pin-ups, '90s cartoons (Ren & Stimpy and Johnny Bravo) and cheeky Fender guitar placement. In Scott's own words, "It's not about good taste, it's about having fun."
Also tending toward playful erraticism (and with a self-confessed lack of a single narrative), Rosie Assoulin architected a collision of colour, drape and volume with the kind of finesse and sophistication that only she can. Luxurious materials were the hero of the show, in particular a patent neoprene A-line maxi skirt, a patchwork sequined bodice and liquid silk jacquard suiting with velvet trim. The superhero? A pair of stop sign red overalls with a floor-sweeping cape.
4. Phlegmatic (Relaxed and quiet)
An offering of comfortable luxe - astrakhan coats, plush velveteen and a collection of fine fabrics realised in deepest marine, cement, sanguine red, nut brown and lilac. Proportions were generous, materials were exquisite, lengths were long - puddling at the feet of trousers. Like the season's before, this collection is the sartorial equivalent of a swan - serene and elegant to look at, with most of the effort unseen below the surface; A timeless capsule of quiet luxury.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection