NYFW recap: Oscar, Proenza, Jeremy, Rosie and Phillip
S/S ’17 shows
With the biggest publicity gathering designers out of the way (that would be Kanye, Tommy, Wang and Victoria), it was up to the next round of New York-based designers to take the stage.
First up, Jeremy Scott, who took to the New York stage with typical high drama, calling to mind the schlocky visuals (slime included) of an '80s horror flick-meets-underground rave. Certainly, Scott was making reference to his early days in a fledgling designer in the city that never sleeps, with 'New York', 'Slime City' and 'Hot Hot Hot' written across several key looks. With a neon, Pop Art-aesthetic, the collection had undertones of fetish though use of leather, zips and latex - but it was a kitsch kind of sex appeal, laid over in Scott's classic tongue-in-cheek style.
Rosie Assoulin often likes to experiment with volume and proportion, but this season she seemed intent on outfitting her customer to be prepped for every kind of holiday imaginable. Breezy is one word that comes to mind when describing her slightly retro S/S '17 collection, as the designer offered everything from pant suits to floral tea dresses and voluminous, floor-sweeping maxis and wide-brimmed hats. Making remarkable use of colour and pattern, the designer's balance of clever cutouts and textural details reinforced why she's one of NYFW's most interesting designers.
Always one of NYFW's highlights, Proenza Schouler sought to introduce prints for S/S '17. At first playing with asymmetrical volume and primary colours, the collection introduced a succession of slinky dresses that reminded one of a Mondrian painting. Elsewhere, stripes and modern tribal prints brought jackets, skirts and dresses to life, anchored by chunky leather flatforms. Of course, the clothes were so much more than just 'a printed dress' - precision cutouts, bows and architectural construction elevated them to the highest level of craftsmanship the label is renowned for.
Over at 3.1 Phillip Lim, California girls strode the runway in a series of relaxed, undone separates imbued with pretty floral prints, exposed zips and tiny ruffles. And even if Lim signalled it was not the end of the midriff by showcasing a series of bralettes teamed with skirts and jeans, and worn underneath dresses, it wasn't only designed for those on the right side of 30. Sharp sleeveless coats and fluid silk dresses and bombers lend structure to the collection, offering a range of looks appealing to modern city girls as well.
At Oscar de la Renta where new design team (and Monse designers) Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia were freshly announced as Peter Copping's successors, S/S '17 offered a palate cleanser wrapped up in clean shades of white, cream, red and black. Opening the show with six white lacy dresses that were classic Oscar de la Renta, Copping's creations developed into a gypsy, bohemian vibe with paisley printed dresses and shimmering gold chiffon numbers. Closing his last spring/summer show with feathered, lace, and beaded cocktail dresses and ballgowns - Copping left the ball safely in Laura Kim's and Fernando Garcia's court. They take over creative direction of the label for A/W '17.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection