NYFW recap: Michael, Jason and Ralph set a new mood
Alright, let's get one thing out of the way: Bella Hadid tripped on the Michael Kors runway. And everyone got a photo. Now that's been cleared up; onto the clothes.
It was clear the American designer was feeling the '60s love (also seen in the boxy jackets and minis from A/W '16), with a collection that unashamedly placed acid-bright flower power prints at the forefront of the show. Of course, Kors was careful not to be too derivative - the cheerful florals were used on sexy '50s two-pieces and across sleek pencil skirts, trenches and knee-length dresses. Of course, there was plenty of monochrome suiting and embellished cocktail dresses to counteract all the lime green and candy pink, too. But if you wanted to understand the designer's main message, all you had to do was read the word 'Love' written across one jumper to understand what it was.
Perhaps it's the effect of the seemingly never-ending US election campaign, but Jason Wu's S/S '17 collection for Boss was full of the kind of primary colours you see on the American flag. Red, blue and white kept popping up (alongside green and black), as the New York designer sought to introduce his version of utilitarian chic to the German brand. Considering Boss is a house that once produced German work uniforms, it's fitting that yesterday's show provided the modern woman with a looser kind of uniform for 2016. Tailoring was obviously present, but suits sat alongside softer moments of silk chiffon slip dresses, peek-a-boo cutouts and a fluidity of form and silhouette that spoke of ease and no-nonsense. Sexy, yet grown-up, Jason Wu found a way to reference fashion's current sporty-meets-sexy vibe without alienating Boss' current customer base.
By now, we're getting used to seeing the see-now-buy-now message that many designers are flouting. Ralph Lauren is the latest, and his latest collection was part cowgirl, part Native American Indian - and a little bit '80s disco just for fun. While some looks saw Kendall Jenner and Taylor Hill looking like they'd stepped off the set of a high-fashion American Western, decked out in cowboy hats and chunky belts; others took Aztec prints and leather accents and placed them on slinky dresses for evening. And in the end, both Western and warrior references were swept aside for a rainbow of punchy numbers that screamed '80s disco - in the most Ralph Lauren way possible.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection