Ever since Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow took the reins at DKNY, they've imbued the quintessential New York brand with a renewed freshness and youth-centric relevance.
Bella Hadid opened the show in a hooded, cowl-neck dress which perfectly summed up where the label currently sits: luxe tailoring with a streetwise edge. Tailoring was key to the 44 looks the duo showed yesterday - without it, the oversized shoulders (a nod to Vetements) and trailing, unfinished sleeves and hems would have look haphazard. Luckily, this futuristic take on streetwear featured something for the minimalists (the clean lines of the opening looks) and the more experimental (a couple of refashioned navy pinstripe suits).
For Rodarte sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, romance is never really off the menu, but for S/S '17 the usual smattering of sheer and ruffled lace creations were interspersed with a series of studded and fringed leather creations worn with safety pin decorated trousers. A take on romantic punk, perhaps, the frothiest of dresses were teamed with leather boots and studded belts which served to anchor these ethereal, shimmering lace concoctions. On the whole, though? A dreamlike, magical collection that was classic Rodarte.
Gabriela Hearst's designs are rooted in wearability and injected with certain luxe modernist sensibility, and the designer continued that trend with a tight, considered edit of tailored suits, wardrobe staples and impeccably cut dresses. Her label may be in its infancy, but already the designer is fast carving a niche for herself for her precision tailoring and luxurious wool knits (sourced from her family's ranch in Uruguay) - all executed to perfection. While mostly sticking to a palette of black, red, electric blue, khaki and white, some of Hearst's prettiest looks were the ones rendered in sorbet shades of powder blue, peach and blush.
Stuart Vevers continued his winning streak at Coach 1941 by managing to present wardrobe staples like leather jackets in a totally new, covetable way. Last season, he gave us varsity bomber jackets and an innovative way with shearling, but this season he zeroed in on the leather jacket. Embellished and decorated with flowers, badges, feathers, fur and studs, and worn over sheer floral dresses and paired with impressively high creepers, this season's leather jacket was anything but boring. The S/S '17 Coach girl may have been an eclectic mix of prairie and '50s rock 'n' roll (with the Elvis tee to prove it), but it served to do what it set out to: give the formerly ailing leather brand an irresistable millennial makeover.