NYFW recap: Aussies take New York
It's no secret that New York streets are full of Aussie ex-pats; brave nomads who've made the jump across the Pacific in hopes of taking a bite out of the Big Apple. But this fashion season, homegrown talent has proved particularly fruitful.
Let's begin with Matthew Adams Dolan, (who was born and now lives in The States but grew up in Sydney) who has gained notoriety for his maximalist, blown out, tailored silhouettes favoured by Rihanna.
Fans of his overdrawn shapes will not be disappointed with trouser and outerwear shapes that models could do laps in, cozy grandpa knits in pepto pink and electric blue and the chicest oversized shirting. For those inclined to something more streamlined, Dolan has introduced cigarette-style denim, waist-nipping blazer jackets and a signature cool aesthetic. We love.
Australia's fashion darling debuted at NYFW to fanfare in signature modern, feminine styles realised in supple burgundy leather, gold lurex and thick, tassel-trimmed tapestry. Injections of striking, sheer lace, flirtatious cutouts and a '60s-'70s aesthetic ensured Alice McCall didn't stray far from what her fans love the most, while pushing boundaries for a new audience.
"I was feeling very explorative," explained the designer in notes for the show. "I like the idea of breathing fresh air into a red carpet gown." They are certainly clothes to celebrate in.
A few hours later, Dion Lee presented a powerful collection that borrowed from familiar themes such as suiting and military uniforms but, infused with a '90s, minimalist sensuality, became sexy, bold and fresh.
Lingerie was a major touch-point, with the brassiere stitched as a contrast gingham feature on a classic black blazer, used as an anchor for cut-outs or a guideline for paneling. Lee's menswear was presented in the understated and refined spirit in which the womenswear is in complimentary; somber palettes and the womenswear itself oscillated between sleek and swollen, a symphony of silhouettes each one more beautiful than the last.
"For Fall18, the muse is a youthfully adventurous, Victorian-era woman, she lives in oppressive surroundings but finds freedom and a chance of mischief in her horse and her riding," explained co-founder Nicky Zimmermann of her NYFW collection. "This is her escape and her horse takes her to where she wants to go, to where fun and trouble can be found."
Sartorially speaking, this translated to the brand's signature romance reimagined with equestrian details like a saddle-esque corset belt, a buttery beige take on a Driza Bone, a field's worth of power florals and acres of ruffles and volume. Looks were reminiscent of period dressing, the kind of long-line elegance of Nicole Kidman's Lady Sarah Ashley in the Baz Luhrmann epic, Australia.
Though they are miles from it, it's clear that when it comes to inspiration, Zimmermann still calls Australia home.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection