Moschino does sale chic – but what does it mean?
Jeremy Scott has put sale on Moschino for Resort 2016. No, that's not a typo. We don't mean the collection is on sale - it hasn't even hit stores yet. We mean SALE IS ON THE CLOTHES, in the form '1/2 OFF!' slogans and prints that read 'Sale! Sale! Sale!' And pockets shaped like glossy carrier bags, complete with string handles. Plus a crop top and some silly, but weirdly covetable, earrings in the same vein. And ghetto-fabulous gold chain necklaces with plastic pendants spelling it out (in case you're a bit slow on the uptake) - give us an 'S', give us an 'A', give us an 'L', give us an 'E'...
Related story: Great Scott! Moschino to make its Italian menswear debut
Related story: Retro wonderland: all the looks from Gucci Cruise 2016
Don't worry; we were confused too. Was this Scott making a joke about the timing of the reveal, smack bang in the middle of the end-of-financial-year sales? The Resort collections are the most commercial, the ones that hang around longest before being marked down (from November sometimes through to March), and they tend to be more accessible than Spring and Fall. Or was Scott taking the mick out of consumer culture in general, even though the Italian brand he has helmed since 2013 operates within it? Or questioning the value of the mighty fashion system? Or just having a laugh?
All of the above, probs. When the haters bang on about how crazy/tacky/nutty Scott's odes to SpongeBob SquarePants/Mickey Ds/Barbie are (or that fragrance in the teddy bear bottle - what was that?), they often overlook the fact that there's an historical precedent - method to the madness.
Related story: Ruffled beauty: see Ellery's Resort 2016 collection
When founder of the brand Franco Moschino died in 1994, The New York Times noted, "he was as much social commentator as designer". Franco, who started his fashion life sketching for Gianni Versace in the '70s, was the king of the visual joke. He ridiculed "fashion victims" (his customers!), sent models down his runways in binbag ballskirts worn with slogan tanks that read, 'There's no such thing as good taste'. One time, he trimmed jackets with cutlery. Another, he adorned the hem of a quilted mini with plastic fried eggs. There's an '80s dress of his in London's Victoria & Albert Museum with a skirt constructed entirely from black push-up bras - like, Gaultier, take that!
I'm pretty sure Franco Moschino would have enjoyed Scott's work. The joke continues. Not everyone gets it, but Scott is the punch line.
Karl does K-Pop: a kaleidoscope of colour at Chanel Cruise 15/16
Dior's spectacular Cruise 2016 show was literally in a fashion bubble
Paris in Palm Springs: see all the looks from Louis Vuitton Cruise 2016
Buro 24/7 Selection