Mad about the girl: the sweet eclecticism at Miu Miu S/S ’16
Once you unpeel a few layers of Miu Miu's latest collection there's much to obsess over
Are there two sides to every woman? Miucca Prada seems to think so, as she presented a collection on the last day of Paris Fashion Week that morphed schoolgirl kitsch with '40s elegance. Playing up to the irreverent Miu Miu girl aesthetic we all know and love, the collection opened with boxy coats and jackets and fast moved into layered ladylike - prairie girl blouses and frilly cheer chiffon dresses worn over gingham, with fox stoles and fur tails attached to waistbands.
Related story: Reinventing the wheel: a classic reboot at Prada S/S '16
The layers of chiffon were a story we saw in Prada's recent S/S '16 show and fox tails appeared in the last Miu Miu resort offering - but we also saw the addition of feathered neck-pieces tied haphazardly around model's necks, adding to the other eclectic and richly textural details that were worked throughout the entire show. With gingham, checks, jacquard and all sorts of amazing prints on offer, the potentially twee elements like headbands, patterned cardis and tutus were offset by decorated leather jackets and heavy overcoats (for that random cool summer day?).
It was also hard not to pay attention to the shoes (and bags) in this Miu Miu show, even despite what was happening upstairs. Miuccia Prada might be one of the most intellectual designers around, but boy does she have a knack for creating shoes and bags that appeal to every woman's most base bowerbird instincts. Normally Miu Miu's footwear has a kittenish appeal, but this season's shoes were loud - and proud of it. We saw patterned and patchworked lace-up boots, patent leather pointy toe stilettos with mismatched fabric straps, platform Mary Janes and deconstructed ballet slippers with gingham straps and leather buckles - the mix was a little crazy on paper but perfection on the catwalk.
As with Prada's collection, there was a lot to process visually, but on closer inspection each component in itself was a mini work of art. With Leigh Lezark modelling a highlight from Miu Miu's last resort collection on the streets of Paris recently, we can't wait to see these pieces come to life on the next great It-girl in a few months...
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