Trust Miuccia Prada to do something out of the box for her Miu Miu Resort 2016 collection. While we've seen space-age architecture at Dior and Louis Vuitton and retro romanticism at Gucci, Saturday night's Miu Miu presentation may not have been staged in a new venue or on the streets of New York, but it certainly had the right kind of party spirit.
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Staging a fake Miu Miu club in the usual Palais d'Iena venue, complete with DJ sets and performances from Seth Troxler, Cassy, Frederic Sanchez and Craig Richards was an inspired way to present the house's 28-look Resort collection and launch the first ever Miu Miu fragrance (FYI: the campaign is fronted by actress Stacy Martin).
Guests were served cocktails and pasta, then a line up of models began walking down the scaffolding-lined runway to a soundtrack of tech-house beats. While the mood and the runway music had an industrial edge, the clothes themselves were derived from a variety of '50s, '60s and '80s influences. Take, for example, the '50s-style poodle skirts (in vinyl, mind you), stamped with 'Miu Miu Club Sat. July 4th 2015' in the style of a club poster - that were a kind of retro-modern mashup that felt very 2015. There were even echoes of Prada's recent Resort collection seen in the printed blouses and eyelets that appeared on the bottom of a couple of '60s shift dresses, but as with all Miu Miu collections, the mood was infinitely more youthful than a Prada show.
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From the cropped polo shirts and blouses worn over clothing to the clashing of print and colour - there was an element of anything-goes rave culture underlying the collection. Shiny metallic fabrics and graphic printed shift dresses clashed with ladylike heels, while '80s hair, messy topknots and dangly earrings gave each look a defiant attitude. While you could correctly say the eclectic styling and wide range of influences was classic Miuccia Prada - it's interestingly also derivative of real-life club culture itself. We'll leave you to ponder that one...
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