It may be pouring rain outside, but Milan brought the magic to the runways this week
After yesterday's Gucci extravaganza, where to next for Milan's next batch of agenda-setting designers? Here, we bring you the highlights from the first two days of shows.
Opening the show with a red playsuit, Karl Lagerfeld's vision for Fendi was pretty much summed up right there. Packed with one-pieces featuring bloomer-style shorts and minis cut in leather, silk and chiffon embroidered with flowers; Lagerfeld was clearly designing for a youthful spirit in mind. Striking a balance between short hemlines and peek-a-boo cutouts with tough fabrics and high necklines - the vibe was playful, without being too girlie.
Over at Alberta Ferretti, models inhabited a free-spirited, bohemian headspace, complete with stunning patchworked lace dresses, gladiator sandals and long, flowing skirts that billowed down the runway. An earthy palette black, tan and nude morphed into lashings of yellow, purple, orange and chartreuse - but keeping within the desert dreaming atmosphere. Take note of the way T-shirts and blouses were layered under dresses - we're predicting this to be an emerging trend/styling trick.
The sophisticated minx of Max Mara's A/W '15 collection gave way to a more nautical theme this season. Classic, easy-to-wear staples in the way of military-buttoned coats, blazers and high-waisted trousers prevailed, but were broken up by flashes of large-scale red and yellow stars and stripes, and a knot-pattern rendered in blue or red silk. Dominated by white, cream, navy, black and grey - it was a collection of filled with easily accessible separates.
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On the opposite end of the spectrum, Jeremy Scott's vision for Moschino was as kitschy and pop culture-tastic as ever. Taking obvious cues from the neon-bright signage of roadworks and laundry product packaging and subverting their everyday ordinariness by turning them into wearable couture - the Moschino show was a proper extravaganza. Blindingly bright, OTT and with tongue planted firmly in cheek, Scott's brand-heavy statement even culminated into a Big Bird moment of yellow feathers, princess skirts with rockets pointing outwards from the bodice and crazily embellished ballgown complete with car-wash signs. Expect Katy Perry to be rocking one very soon.
Massimo Giorgetti's first major womenswear outing for Emilio Pucci (admittedly, resort was his first) heralded a new direction for the label after the departure of Peter Dundas. While the less-is-more approach to prints might be surprising for some, Giorgetti's eclectic sea-inspired collection showcased a reverence for colour, pattern and contrasting textures. We saw blouses layered under dresses and skirts cut with side slits in all manner of fabrications and techniques - from laser-cut white silk to appliquéd chiffon, patchwork, beadwork and even fishnets worked over with sea creatures.