Milan Fashion Week: the best and brightest from the weekend
It was sexy and animal-print heavy offering for some of the weekend's major players. Here, we give you the highlights
Even though sexy dresses are embedded in the Versace genes, Donatella's imagining for S/S '16 brought out a collection packed with military-inspired jackets, dresses and shorts mixed back with wild animal prints in punchy shades of green, violet, orange and fluoro yellow. While there were a few obligatory slashed-to-the-navel evening dresses and thigh-skimming minis thrown into the mix - strong, modern and sexy was the order of the day.
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Tomas Maier was clearly dreaming of an African adventure when he was designing Bottega Veneta's spring/summer collection. Animal prints featured heavily on bomber jackets, vests and suiting, in a collection that had all the hallmarks of a modern safari. Colours were mostly neutral, but splashes of red, rosy pink and teal permeated the wilderness-loving show - mostly through the shoes, bags and accessories, mind you.
For Peter Dundas' first outing as Roberto Cavalli's new creative director, the former Pucci designer seemingly took his cues from the excesses of the '80s. Ruffled asymmetrical hems, one-shouldered crop tops and mini dresses, oversized jackets and high-waisted leather pants expressly brought back the extreme '80s silhouettes for a new generation of party girls. While tie-dye also made an appearance (a trend we first noticed in New York), so did ruffle detailing, sexy flashes of skin and Cavalli's signature: animal prints.
Over at Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni's modernist aesthetic was marked by fluid, A-line silouettes and bold primary colours worn in layers. As you'd expect from a Marni collection, block colours eventually gave way to bold, maximalist prints and even a few sequinned pieces and graphic mesh-like dresses which were layered both under and over garments. Typically, the colour palette was wide - ranging from moss green, yellow, baby pink, black, white, shy blue, bright red and tobacco.
Related story: Reinventing the wheel: a classic reboot at Prada S/S '16
This season, Missoni's prints took a turn for the tribal, with the house unmistakeable zig zag and striped patterns taking their inspiration from the Maasai tribespeople. But although the sentiment was African, the delivery was modern and sports-luxe driven. Floor-skimming hemlines, high-waisted bikini bottoms and even striped polo-neck tees lit up the runway in a rainbow of summery shades. In short: unmistakeably Missoni, but still fresh and covetable.
Season after season Dolce & Gabbana do a roaring trade in bringing the vitality of Sicilian culture to life. This season, we saw all the familiar markings of a Dolce collection - bustier-shaped crop tops, high-waisted shorts, slim-fitting pencil skirts and flirty '50s dresses decorated with florals and religious imagery - but done in intentionally kitschy form. Italy's cultural icons - the gondoliers, the colosseum, Portofino's bathing beauties were lovingly rendered in clothing that was rich with details, colourful and effervescent.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection