MFW recap: the sheer beauty of day one
S/S '18 goes to Milano
After two-plus years at the helm of Gucci - now one of the most cultish brands on the luxury market - we sort of know what to expect from an Alessandro Michele collection. Rich in detail, with so many pop-culture-meets-Renaissance references it would take a university thesis to dissect them, Gucci's S/S '18 collection (watch it live here) was a lesson in audacity mixed with restraint.
Taking cues from Elton John's collection of stage clothes from his glam-rock '70s era (Michele was given access to John's personal archives..!), we saw men dressed in musical note and Evel Knieval-style jumpsuits alongside Snow White and Bugs Bunny-adorned tops.
Womenswear ranged from the pretty to wacky care of frothy red-carpet dresses, starry, puff-sleeve jumpsuits and a couple of fur 'Margot Tenenbaum' coats that looked like they'd been lifted from the set of Wes Anderson's classic 2001 film. But there were also quieter moments in the show, reflected in the show notes which stated that "The collection embodies the exercise in resistance".
One model wore a flat-topped version of an Asian farmer hat and sparkly glasses, but down below sported a pretty lace dress and plaid blazer that wouldn't look out of place in any office. As with all Gucci collections, the trick is to pull everything apart.
Alberta Ferretti strove for a new direction in her S/S'18 show. Instead of the floaty, ethereal gowns she's become known for, she chose to present a succession of swimwear pieces matched with sports-luxe basics. While there were a few sheer and feathered dresses in black and ghostly shades of nude, followed by a succession of metallic pastel pieces; the overall tone of the collection was muted and somewhat subdued.
Over at No. 21, Alessandra Dell'Acqua toyed with the notion of homage by effectively plagiarising a 1997 collection of his own (under his former namesake label). Taking inspiration from what was deemed his favourite show, the collection featured lots of sheer looks perfect for spring, with the black slip over red lingerie taken directly from Dell'Acqua's S/S '97 oferring. The collection begun with a series of soft pink and nude dresses which then delved into sexier territory via bold, red, black and leopard tones. Feathers features across several looks, adding a sense of playful opulence.
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