MFW recap: MOLTO bene
Maximalism alla Milanese
As per classic Italian hospitality, more is more. Whether that be more food, more wine or more music and dancing, anyone who has spent time in the warmth of the locals knows that restraint is hardly in the Italian vocabulary. So, when it comes to the collections, it should be no surprise that they practise the same maximalist philosophies.
Let's start with Gucci (whose presentation you can re-watch on Buro 24/7 in full). Creative director Alessandro Michele has made a signature of his multi-layered, bower bird-inspired clash of prints and references since his first collection for the Italian luxury house back in 2014. This season sees the eccentrically-inspired designer stay true to his crested creative inclinations, throwing a hothouse of botanical prints down the runway (120 looks to be exact), rife with Wes Anderson tributes, high-shine PVC, glittering jacquards, 80s styling cues, Chinoiserie, torso cut-outs that exposed men from nipple to navel and a few face-covering lurex bodysuits and pronounced face piercings thrown in for good measure.
In what is sure to be a Where's Wally exercise of extruding Michele's references, it's a collection heavy on the eye, in the best possible way.
In an ever so slightly more toned-down way, Francesco Scognamiglio and Fausto Puglisi channelled their ideas of OTT through blown-out silhouettes, daring glimpses of the body (see-through skirt, anyone?) and in the former's case, a bizarre new suiting style that seemed to champion shorts-over-trousers. What does one call such a creation? Trourts? Shorsers?
At Puglisi, there were the eye-water metallic and fuschia tapestry-esque looks finished with strategically-placed crystals and feathers, the fluoro fluff-trimmed sandals and half-mini-half-maxi Frankenskirts sure to leave even the most informed of fashionistas requesting a how-to.
Quieter still but not less determined, were looks at Alberta Ferretti (who sent out a hypnotic opening of graphic black and white striped look and Cedric Charlier chose head-to-toe acid yellow as his definition of A/W'17 chic. Even the usually more restrained No.21 sent out looks that mish-mashed ideas of suiting and evening wear with sports as did Fay with a punk-inspired red checkered number slathered in zips and paired with - what else - a leather blouse.
Despite a feast of colour, pattern and frenetics, MFW Day 2 couldn't come sooner. Those clever Italians really do know how to leave us wanting more.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection