LFW wrap up: Anarchy, alpine adventures and a Hadid-inspired show
Argyle sweaters and shearling aviator jackets were the order of the day at Anya Hindmarch's show, staged upon a pseudo ski slope. "Romanticised notions of winter and wanderlust," read the show notes as a Nordic fairytale-inspired collection of hyper colour fuzz-trimmed capes, stoles and coats ferried down the runway.
British aristocracy could be seen channelled across the Victorian and Edwardian eras: tartan dresses, check suiting and equestrian influences in austere, traditional hues (oxblood, beige, and powder blue), crochet finishes, tea party dresses, high-neck blouses and puffed sleeves.
Sub-cultures were not without reference, however, as evidenced by the punk-goth anarchists at Gareth Pugh and the club kid 80s ravers at Topshop Unique and Versus Versace. The former, described his collection as, "an austere vision of a world on the precipice of anarchy," and sent an almost entirely black collection of ballooning silhouettes down the runway to a soundtrack splicing Donald Trump soundbites with a mashup of songs mixed in the same formula that the CIA uses to keep prisoners awake.
Henry Holland's predictably playful collection of pastel hues and zany prints was inspired by a road trip across the USA, entitled Daddy, Where's My Car? Red, white and blue stars, fringing, cowboy shirts, hats and boots were all part of the vocabulary of what Holland referred to as, "kind of my love letter to America" and featured a 15-piece Woody Woodpecker capsule collection-within-a-collection influenced by the cartoon character.
Finally to the cool kids. JW Anderson, the man currently charged with the title of Fashion's Favourite didn't disappoint with a collection heavy in S&M-esque gladiator boots alongside liquid silk separates, draped jersey, ostrich-feather trims and metallic chain mail tops dotted with crystal embellishment. "Uber-feminine", as he called it.
"I always look at Gigi and Bella, because they are young," said Donatella Versace ahead of her Versus Versace collection showing. The two sisters both opened and closed the show, bookending a slew of 'modern supermodels' in low-slung trousers (sure to be repeated across the European shows) stompy, Doc Marten-esque boots, slinky dresses and seriously cropped tops. How else does one show off those famous Hadid abs?
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