It opened with a cluster of black tutu-clad ballerinas twirling down the smoke-filled runway, and with their heads shrouded in black veils and the shadowy industrial-vibe of the Carriageworks venue, the effect was somehow both dark and demure.

The first look belonged to Aussie model veteran Gemma Ward, clad in a black silk-satin dress and accompanied by hip-hop music pumped up to bass-thumping, seat-shaking levels. Followed by Australian star-in-the-making Astrid Holler in a layered monochromatic ensemble, the collection featured the sharply cut tailoring that Ellery is renowned for - think: flared pants, bell-shaped sleeves and oversized structured shirting in a palette of navy, black and white with hints of grey, coppery orange and sky blue.

Both the silhouettes and the direction of the collection were strong and modern - and with Ellery favourite Emma Balfour closing the show in a glittery, fringed bustier dress worn over black trousers - it was clear who the Ellery girl is.

Closed by shots of glitter guns that rained down the runway and over the models, it was an energetic, star-studded and promising start to Australian Fashion Week.