British designer Kim Jones is our hero. Why? Because of the quiet revolution he's been conducting as Men's Style Director at Louis Vuitton since 2011. And because of that time he showed his own-name collection at the Rooftop Cinema in Melbourne. But mostly because of the snap he shared on Insta the night before his Spring '16 men's show for LV, of Kate Moss on a Paris bridge, looking back to the camera over the shoulder of her embroidered satin bomber jacket. That was it; we were goners.
Related story: Bombers out: Louis Vuitton's menswear S/S '16 show
What Jones sent down the runway the following day wasn't in anyway girly - his sleek, street-savvy ensembles packed the dangerous swagger of the 1950s Teddy Boy with a dash of Bowie (circa The Man Who Fell To Earth) - but it was somehow pretty. Tough pretty. The pastel, satins, glamorous scarves and Chinoiserie embroideries were sumptuous in an almost arrogant way. These were clothes for modern dandies supremely comfortable in their own skin. And my lord, did we want to steal them.
Related story: Alessandro Michele's Gucci menswear S/S '16 triumph
Related story: Watch the Gucci S/S '16 menswear show here live
In this, Jones tapped into the gender fluid Zeitgest that's been flowing down the runways since last year when Alessandro Michele sent out those first Gucci chiffon pussy bow blouses for men. Or women. Or whoever. Michele did it again this week for Gucci menswear Spring '16 with even greater aplomb, prompting Tim Blanks at style.com to call his deftly pretty way with a trench and a whimsical floral, "the New Punk".
Related story: Get lacy: Burberry Menswear S/S '16 in London
Meanwhile Christopher Bailey was bedecking his Burberry boys out in guipure lace - under his sharp jackets, there were lace shirts and ties and what can only be described as camisoles. Some of Bailey's frill-front lace shirts looked like the 1960s Brit rocker gear that's woven deep into the house codes (Ray Davies from the Kinks perhaps, or everyone from The Who) but others were more suited to Keira Knightley in a 1930s costume drama. The message? Anything goes.
Related story: Retro wonderland: all the looks from Gucci Cruise 2016
If you thought boyfriend dressing was about a jean with perhaps a bit of a blazer and a brogue, it's time for a rethink.