If Rodarte had designed the costumes for Alejandro González Iñárritu's Oscar-nominated film The Revenant it might have looked something like this. A feeding frenzy of fabric and slashed-up aesthetics, the collection was a study in scattering, of layer upon layer of sheer tissue torn away to fray at the sleeve or haphazardly stitched in frothy ruffles, winding down the body in a palette of black, white, flesh and sanguine red. Sure to be a highlight (and the most Revenant-y of all) - the exquisite, multi coloured goat hair furs, reminiscent of Isabel Marant's bestsellers in 2010 and just as likely to inspire obsession.
Stuart Vever's tenure at Coach has proved to be a masterclass in outerwear. Since his appointment as creative director in 2013, he has been credited with reawakening the sleepy brand and returning the house to its core values - Americana and the art of luxury leatherwork. With a particular penchant for shearling, ("To me, it's quite honest. It's a raw material with very simple construction," he explains) the A/W '16 parade of reimagined varsity team jackets, parkas, perfectos, flight jackets, fur vests, peacoats and studded suede styles (staged on a would-be basketball court, no less) will ensure one need never feel a hint of air chill ever again. Add Ziggy Stardust-esque metallic boots, the current seasonal requirement of yolked, cowboy tailoring and a finale of back-to-class collegiate looks and it's Coach for the win.
In the grand setting of The Prince George Ballroom in Manhattan's midtown, creative director Peter Copping wove a narrative of modern romance, true to the Oscar de la Renta legacy and house codes. A scattering of signature pink, suggestions of lingerie through lace and exposed corsetry, hourglass silhouettes and Watch-Me-Walk-Away details (there were ballgowns secured with giant bows at the backs of necks and metallic soles of stiletto heels) were updated with colour-blocked gowns and fur collars. Everyone loves a good love story.