Kicking off the last day of shows in New York, Ralph Lauren delivered on his signature style of discreet affluence. Classic tailoring, simple knitwear and neutral palettes were realized in supple, luxurious materials with influence from British hunting gear evolving into hints of Elizabethan regal wear by way of neck ruffles, purple velvet and rich, sweeping brocades.

A/W '16 recap: NYFW closes with a surprise

At Calvin Klein (watch the full show here), things started off as one might predict - a few precision-cut, black suits with a CK-cool slouch. But quickly, cracks of colour and intriguing detail - fur epaulettes, a trailing strap, a ribbon hem - started to give way to more persistent, bolder, layered plaids, skunk prints and cut outs fixed with floating slices of crystal agate to reveal a new, boundary-pushing vocabulary for the to-date minimalist language of the brand.

A/W '16 recap: NYFW closes with a surprise

Finally, Marc Jacobs, the week's most anticipated show, closed out NYFW with no shortage of the theatre and drama he is celebrated for. Set to the soundtrack of silence, punctuated only by the sound of digital 'tings' (like a text alert on your phone) Jacobs offered an austere, gothic collection of gargantuanly-proportioned outerwear, long gowns and tiered furs with Victorian inflections such as lace collars and chopine-like lace-up boots (with altitude sickness-inducing platforms) in a largely stormy palette.

A/W '16 recap: NYFW closes with a surprise

Unannounced and largely unnoticed at the time, Lady Gaga slipped her way into the model line-up in a behemoth, fur-sleeved coat and the Charleston-esque finger waves, black lips and heavy eyeliner worn throughout the show, discretely walking the catwalk to little awareness until the frenzy that followed post-show; The girl does love to cause a stir.

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A/W '16 recap: NYFW closes with a surprise