A/W '16 recap: futuristic folk is trending at LFW
The last day
There was a distinctly folk-inspired mood woven into the collections from the last few days at London Fashion Week - possibly evolving from recent seasons' love affair with '70s bohemia. This time, however, the outlook was set light years forward with a nod towards futurism.
At Peter Pilotto - the design duo known for explosions of intricate, modern prints and blasts of colour - the hand-crafted attention to detail shone through in metallic and iridescent fabrics inspired by glacial structures. Geometric interpretations of artisanal prints were embroidered onto fluffy overcoats, down split corduroy skirts, and twisted round the collars of knitwear. Though shapes and silhouettes remained traditional, Pilotto's signature futuristic handwriting was present in innovative and sculptural tailoring - caped knitted jumper, anyone?
Erdem's floral and lace dress collection - featuring only three suiting exceptions -also had a distinctly quaint charm, with characteristically enchanting details such as floating white lace collars and yolked blouses engineered with panels of clashing prints and clever cutting techniques to update them for a modern setting. The overwhelmingly overcast palette saw pops of colour in brightened brocade flowers and glimmers of tinsel tassels. Smatterings of almost Studio 54-esque gunmetal sequins felt like a meeting between Madame Bovary and Blade Runner.
Christopher Kane's 'village people' came shrouded in Babushka-like scarf hoods on looks marked with the designer's signature quirk and playfulness. Recalling Mugatu's 'Derelicte' collection from the first Zoolander installment, the end result was inspired by Kane's obsession with hoarders: garments designed to resemble corrugated cardboard, plastic bags and abandoned trails of flowers. The real highlights, however, were in beautifully crafted black dresses, decorated with flourishes of ostrich feathers - a favoured trim of designers everywhere this season.
Filling out Burberry's perennially impressive front row sat Alexa Chung, Naomi Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Mario Testino, Lily Donaldson, Olivia Palermo, Ellie Goulding, Elisa Sednaoui and Suki Waterhouse to view a collection heavy in confident outerwear - a hallmark for the brand. The show (watch it here) read like a greatest hits of creative director Christopher Bailey's tenure: military tailoring, oversized shearling aviator jackets, pea coats and blown-out plaids. But this time, focus was on the oversized shape and exotic fabrications: python came in bright green, printed georgette and high gloss, alongside high-shine leather, lamé and lurex. Crystal-encrusted minidresses rounded off the show in dazzling multifaceted jewel tones. And, in keeping with Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler (and a whole host of other designers to come), this Burberry collection will be made entirely available to order following the show.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection