A/W '16 recap: Céline and Givenchy get Zen
As we embark on the last leg of fashion month's shows, thoughts invariably turn to winding down and resetting and we all have our own way of doing that. Is it a slate-cleaning spring clean, a yoga session or just a long nap? Right now there is possibly no one more in need of a peaceful moment than designers; Two of most lauded creative director's clearly had their minds on Zen pursuits while working out their A/W '16 offerings.
To Phoebe Philo, this meant finding 'stillness', as she described to press after her Celine show. For the wearer, this means comfort - her exaggerated, relaxed-to-the-point-of-being-comatose silhouettes flared and fell away from the body in a clean, minimal colour palette of neutrals accented only with canary yellow and cornflower blue (and a single shot of lime green silk). The collection focused on wearable, comfortable suiting and dress-on-pants proportions (no model walked with bare legs), blown out and realised in discreetly luxurious fabrications - leather, silk satin, snakeskin and lurex. Though there were only a few pieces that really pushed the concept of new (split-front flares and a cape that hung from the collar of coats) the collection is undoubtedly more of what Céline devotees will love and adore.
At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci took a more mystical approach, building his set into a wooden maze (recalling those within the pyramids, he explained backstage) and decorating his collection with mandalas, the Eye of Horus and graphic prints that recalled an ayahuasca-induced, psychedelic trip. The cuts of the garments themselves were at times sober and at times experimental including bandleader jackets, military-inspired tailoring, simple sheaf dresses tricked up with ruffles, seemingly standard skirts and shifts constructed in fur and pea-coats with shoulders that extended just so, to look fresh and modern.
As the first show marking the designer's second decade at the house, it's a sign of even more intriguing things to come.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection