As we embark on the last leg of fashion month's shows, thoughts invariably turn to winding down and resetting and we all have our own way of doing that. Is it a slate-cleaning spring clean, a yoga session or just a long nap? Right now there is possibly no one more in need of a peaceful moment than designers; Two of most lauded creative director's clearly had their minds on Zen pursuits while working out their A/W '16 offerings.
To Phoebe Philo, this meant finding 'stillness', as she described to press after her Celine show. For the wearer, this means comfort - her exaggerated, relaxed-to-the-point-of-being-comatose silhouettes flared and fell away from the body in a clean, minimal colour palette of neutrals accented only with canary yellow and cornflower blue (and a single shot of lime green silk). The collection focused on wearable, comfortable suiting and dress-on-pants proportions (no model walked with bare legs), blown out and realised in discreetly luxurious fabrications - leather, silk satin, snakeskin and lurex. Though there were only a few pieces that really pushed the concept of new (split-front flares and a cape that hung from the collar of coats) the collection is undoubtedly more of what Céline devotees will love and adore.
At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci took a more mystical approach, building his set into a wooden maze (recalling those within the pyramids, he explained backstage) and decorating his collection with mandalas, the Eye of Horus and graphic prints that recalled an ayahuasca-induced, psychedelic trip. The cuts of the garments themselves were at times sober and at times experimental including bandleader jackets, military-inspired tailoring, simple sheaf dresses tricked up with ruffles, seemingly standard skirts and shifts constructed in fur and pea-coats with shoulders that extended just so, to look fresh and modern.
As the first show marking the designer's second decade at the house, it's a sign of even more intriguing things to come.