A/W '16 recap: Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu say au revoir
Part motocross badass, part modern bohemian (with some sneaky MJ Thriller-vibes on the side), Nicolas Ghesquière presented a bold collection effervescing with haute interpretations of athletic styles. With the starting point of a Tomb Raider-like digital heroine, the collection's inspiration set the tone for a powerful and futuristic show.
There was a new trouser shape - slender (not slim) leg, mid-rise and cropped - realised in high-shine red and black motorcycle leathers and denim, and a new tailored jacket silhouette that appeared to crop just under the bust. There were billowing heritage scarf prints, patch-worked and engineered to look like baseball shirts, fluffy mohair outerwear in varsity styles and the humble sports tee, awash with team colours and elongated into demi-couture dresses with kicky, layered hems. The second lot of looks from the 52-strong collection lent more towards the bohemian side of things with soft silks, (though stabilised with patent leather bodices) paisley prints and drape-sleeve, romantic mini-dresses worn unzipped to reveal the belly button and aforementioned motocross trousers, finishing with a finale of space age prints in glittery sequins.
Rounding out the show spectacle, the Miu Miu show was a celebration, a wrap party of sorts (Miuccia told reporters backstage she was in the mood for "fun") and everyone who's anyone was there. With the highest number of supermodels of any show, looks traversed the runway on the backs of Gigi and Bella Hadid, Edie Campbell, Kendall Jenner, Joan Smalls, Irina Shayk, Emily Ratajkowski, Adriana Lima, Sara Sampaio, Binx Walton and Lara Stone.
Not to be upstaged, the collection itself was a coterie of youthful, flirty references - lace doily collars, preppy, collegiate tailoring, two-tone denim deconstructed into silk-skirted mini dresses and holiday-ready oversized cotton shirting and shorts. There was a coming of age through the show, however, when our Valley Girl swapped her taffeta debutante dresses for twinsets, wide-shouldered tailored outerwear and jodhpur trousers. Edwardian collars and heavy tapestries clashed in an unexpectedly high-low combination with deconstructed parkas, furs and crystal-encrusted damask coats. The most charming of the collection, however, were the fluffy, fun fur slides, heavily laden with ornate jewels or pearl baubles, perfectly summing up in their own way Miuccia Prada's playful ability to make the strange and inconceivable a must-have marvel.
And with a shuffle of those pseudo bed slippers, we say goodnight and goodbye to Paris and fashion month. Until next time, à bientôt!
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection