Building on themes of comfort from the first few days of NYFW, it seems designers are retreating to engulfing cocoon styles with model Luna Bijl all but disappearing into a particularly voracious Michael Kors Collection coat, another model dwarfed by her Coach shearling look. With similarly behemoth shapes, though more sculptural, was Delpozo where knitwear stretched over the head in a part-hoodie, part-burka exercise, a style note also seen at Yeezy.
There was the typical slew of classic New York minimalism (which is always more complex than it looks); Three-quarter coats in sombre colours at Gabriela Hearst that kicked out at the waist, extended long lines and a predictably refined colour palette at The Row and Narciso Rodriguez who seemingly picked where Francisco Costa left off with a very Calvin Klein-esque finale, pleasing in its simplicity though it was.
There were some exceptions, however: Rosie Assouline's quirky, patchworked, rainbow circus of a collection; Jonathan Saunders inaugural collection for Diane Von Furstenberg was a riot of print and eye-watering colour and Proenza Schouler's head-spinning cut-outs and twists and turns and scribbled prints were enough to draw head-scratches from the most seasoned show-goer.
Finally, flying the flag for Australians were Zimmermann and Christopher Esber. The former, seasoned pros at NYFW who showed carefully considered command of graphic prints and yards of frothy lace and the former, who for his debut presentation drew critical praise for his clean silhouettes, tricked-up detailing and want-to-wear-now covetability.
