Fashion's major problem: another designer speaks out
Time for change?
First Raf Simons departed Dior, then Alber Elbaz left Lanvin, begging the question, who's next? Although he's only just taken over the reins at Balenciaga, Vetements founder Demna Gvasalia is the latest (and we can't help but think bravest - do creative directors get a probationary period?) designer to call out the industry on its breakneck speed and the pressure it's putting its creative talent under.
It's become all too clear in recent years that fast fashion isn't limited to the high street chains anymore, with Simons, Elbaz and Gvasalia all pinpointing the pace by which they're expected to punch out more and more collections - not to mention increasing social media demands - as the industry's major problem. ""You know we deliver winter in July; it doesn't make any sense," said Gvasalia in an interview with WWD, referencing the ready-to-wear pre-collections. "It's just so confused that I feel something needs to happen to find a new mechanism or system to work because it is a lot of money wasted as well, on development, on selling things we don't really need. I'm not really sure if the market actually demands all those clothes."
Related story: Is the head-spinning pace of fashion ruining everyone?
The Georgian designer's sentiments echo those expressed by Simons and Elbaz. "The problem is when you have only one design team and six collections, there is no thinking time," Simons confided to System magazine. "I said, 'I need more time,'" revealed Elbaz after his shock departure from Lanvin. "And I think everybody in fashion these days needs just a little more time."
We wait with bated breath to see what Gvasalia's next move will be at Balenciaga - is he planning a shake-up for the heritage house he's at the helm of? Could the cooler-than-cool Vetements man be the revolutionary the fashion industry seems to so desperately need? In the interview, he offers up a tiny taste of what's to come: "For me, fashion is something practical," he says. "It's made to be worn rather than change things, otherwise you will be an artist. I think and consider myself more like a dress-making brand." We'll just have to wait and see.
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