Paris Men’s Fashion Week day 5: the final hurrah
Many designers now opting for shows and presentations off schedule. Here, we bring you the best of the PFW finale.
An air of positivity and optimism breezed through Paul Smith's bright spring/summer '18 collection, which presented looks for both men and women. Hawaiian prints referenced Paul's early visits to New York in the '70s, when he'd return to England with trunks of Hawaiian shirts sourced from SoHo. Floral and aquatic motifs were embroidered onto the satin lapels of tuxedos, hand-painted on leather and appliquéd onto tote bags.
The ocean print also made an appearance on technical outerwear, which was developed in collaboration with factories specializing in performance-wear, bringing modernity and function to the collection. A moonlit beach scene on landscape jacquard from Italy's Limonta mill appeared on a bomber jacket for men and a blazer for women. Tailoring cut for both men and women also paid homage to '80s pieces from the Paul Smith archive, in particular the notched lapels, low break points and squared shoulders.
For its third capsule for men and its very first women's collection, the G-Star RAW innovation lab, led by Executive Creative Director Aitor Throup, deconstructed denim to its purest form. Endeavouring to redefine the meaning of RAW, the third collection of Raw Research presents new innovations in denim construction, silhouette and shape, all underscored by an undyed, unwashed and untreated raw denim.
This approach was applied in equal measure across both the men's and women's collections, each collection featuring 10 pieces presented in undyed calico denim.
In addition, the same collection went through a process of hand dyeing where the indigo is added to the raw garments, resulting in an organically irregular visual effect. In an effort to challenge the convention of what defines 'denim', the G-Star innovation lab separated, analysed, and utilised the core elements of denim - the raw fabric and the indigo dye - in wholly new and experimental ways.
Over at Alexander McQueen, tailoring started out clean, austere and almost puritanical. Precisely cut double-breasted jackets were worn over ivory leather bib-fronted shirts with slim fitted trousers finished with a broad, leather stripe. Long tailored coats with peak lapels and equally pared down trouser suits were cut in bonded black and scarlet leather. Outerwear was reconstructed: pieced and patched in camel and differing scales of Prince of Wales check in graphic shades of black, scarlet and ivory.
An oversized cotton gabardine trench coat was reversed and inset with a wool silk jacquard patchwork of contrasting check. Cotton broderie anglaise shirts were paired simply with white poplin cropped trousers or layered with Fair Isle-inspired knits, one of which is pieced and patched together from socks, the former heel now forming the elbow.
The race to the finish line was as epic as the beginning. Pull out you wallets and await the S/S '18 drop into stores!
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection