Demna Gvasalia's debut menswear collection for Balenciaga (the first men's collection for the house) was a play of proportions - in the most quirky way yet
Balenciaga's new creative director Demna Gvasalia is partly responsible for introducing a new mood into fashion. While his moonlighting project - cool-girl catnip label Vetements - is all about streetwear with attitude, Gvasalia's entry into the storied world of French luxury is a slightly different beast. Revealing his mussed-up architectural side for his A/W '16 womenswear collection back in March, for Balenciaga's first-ever menswear collection, Gvasalia focused on fit, in a way that was almost startling to the eye.
Playing with two silhouettes - oversized- squared off coats and blazers and shrunken, body-hugging jackets and trousers - Gvasalia tucked the fitting cards of tailoring clients into the top pockets of each jacket to reiterate his point. With shoulders so wide they seemed to float on the bodies of models or lapels buttoned so tight they seemed to cinch the wearer, and too-short trousers and knee high boots for men (!) the S/S '17 pieces were daring, decidedly different and made one think about fit and proportion - which, we're guessing, was the entire point.