The creation of cult: Mira Duma chats to jeweller Gaia Repossi
One on one
On the eve of the opening of Repossi's new Rem Koolhaas-designed Place Vendôme flagship in Paris, Buro 24/7 founder Miroslava Duma met with the 30-year-old heiress Gaia Repossi. The jewellery brand is about to celebrate its hundredth anniversary, but in recent years, it's been brought back to the top of its game by the younger Repossi, thanks to her artful yet minimalist pieces which have set trends across the industry. Here, we discover more about the woman behind this legendary success.
The Repossi brand was founded in 1920 and in four years' time you will be celebrating its hundredth anniversary. The new flagship boutique is opening in a few days - is it an early birthday gift to yourselves?
You could say that it is, but we have been planning it for a few years already. It's a radically new store concept, which I've been developing for a very long time. We had a temporary boutique on rue Saint-Honoré in spring, but now we are ready to launch a permanent store in the historic Repossi atelier building on Place Vendôme. The address is the same, but we have completely changed the space and added an extra floor.
Repossi has always been a great and respectable house, yet it may have lacked the cool factor. That is why the changes that you have implemented over the last nine years are so astounding. Tell us about the history of the house.
My grandfather was a very skilled drawer and an industrial designer. He could draw anything, from cars to advertising campaigns, and his talents were put to good use at the jewellery house founded by my great-grandfather. My father wanted to be an artist as well and he had made a name for himself in jewellery design. He loved classical art and was attracted to one-of-a-kind gems of a certain size, so his designs were very much on trend in the seventies when it was all about voluminous shapes, exuberance and black gold.
But as time goes by each generation brings with it new perspectives and ideas of what is considered beautiful. I am more about reduction, minimalism and simplicity, which you could say is the opposite of what my father was doing. As a graphic designer, my grandfather also preferred simple lines and shapes, so perhaps my work is bringing Repossi back to its historic roots. I am also showing a woman's response of moving with the jewellery, living with it and at the same time expressing a certain narrative.
You started with the company nine years ago when you were twenty-one and before that, you were not planning to join the family business. How did that come about?
It's true because I considered myself to be a creative person first of all; too creative to go into business, even this somewhat artistic family business. I have always been very keen on art, architecture, and archaeology. Art was my main passion. Then little by little I took a different path. I wanted to start creating something and very soon I have entered this new dimension and I've joined the family business.
Repossi has recently become part of LVMH Group. What does it mean for the future of the brand?
The partnership is very recent, although I have known the members of the LMVH Group and the members of the family for a little while, so there has always been a relationship and a common interest. The sharing of common values was evident when at one point the family realised that we needed to expand in response to this very sudden success that we had. The partnership with LVMH will allow us to extend our reach and to enter new markets at a different level. We weren't looking for expansion as such, it was more important for us to raise brand awareness, to communicate our message and ideas.
You are still very young, yet you have achieved incredible success. What do you have planned for the next five to ten years?
I'm very intuitive and my subconscious probably knows the answers better than I do. It's difficult to put it into words; I'm just following my intuition. I want to take this company on a very nice and peaceful adventure that brings about an evolution that is very organic and natural. I respect the fact that our work is both art and craft.
The Agrafe collection, which you've shown at the beginning of the year, was the first time that you've presented jewellery for men. Is it somehow related to the ideas of gender equality?
Repossi is a woman's jewellery brand, so we weren't planning to do a big collection for men. It was originally a collaboration for a men's earring that we've created for a photoshoot in Fantastic Man magazine. Incidentally, my boyfriend Jeremy was involved in the project as well. That's how the Agrafe collection was born and it became a line for both men and women. I wanted to create something very simple and light, yet harsh and masculine. So femininity here means sophistication that comes through a certain aggression. I like this duality and the fact that each piece looks harsh yet elegant at the same time.
Gender equality is a major issue in society. Women are wearing their boyfriends' clothes and vice versa. How is this trend translating in jewellery?
Modern working women have entered new territory. Have you noticed that the strengthening of women's position in society has been accompanied by a change in attitudes towards jewellery? A woman wearing a lot of jewellery is no longer taken seriously. Successful women tend to dictate a certain minimalism in what they wear. For the last hundred years jewellery was thought to be for going out in long evening gowns, it didn't have a narrative that corresponded to a working lifestyle. But everything changed. Modern jewellery is not something opulent and shiny to just wear in the evening. It is now appropriate to wear pieces of jewellery throughout the day and for any occasion.
Fashion is one of the busiest industries in the world. How do you keep up with it and how do you find balance?
Luckily, jewellery is another dimension. We definitely have the fuss and the speed of fashion, but I think jewellery is a little bit slower. We have a good balance between that sort of speed and the demands of our clients, who begin to want more new things faster. At the same time our business allows us time to think and to come up with new ideas. Perhaps it's due to that fact that we work with precious materials - mistakes are more costly than with prêt-a-porter. Jewellery doesn't age as fast as clothing does and the collections stay for a while.
I'd say that we are the ones who are speeding up the jewellery market. Most houses show one collection a year, but we show two or four, with a lot of variations. So it's a new speed that the ateliers and the structures within the company have to get used to. It's hard for the craftsmen, but they are also enchanted by it because it is the future for them. If we don't improve our speed, then there's no future for us. However, the speed of change in the fashion industry is definitely too fast.
A woman wearing a lot of jewellery is no longer taken seriously
Where do you draw inspiration from?
My main passion is art. I am surrounded by artists and I share my life with one of them. My father has a background in art and he has influenced me immensely. My other passion is travel. When traveling I see a little bit of different ethnicities and I notice what clothing and jewellery women are wearing across the world. Women in India and Africa wear a lot of opulent jewellery, which reflects the culture and traditions of these countries. At the same time we've entered an era where jewellery lacks identity. It became more modern to wear absolutely nothing. So how do we respond to that? What is modern opulence? Do women need jewellery? Is it still a way to express yourself? It's important for me to answer these questions in my work.
Your work is a balance between art, architecture and jewellery. How would you describe what you do?
What I do is not art, even if it has a certain depth and a narrative behind it. First of all it's a craft that we really have to respect, and it's a certain savoir-faire that goes through the generations. So we don't really call ourselves artists. For me the presentation at Gagosian Gallery was more about creating the environment for the jewellery and also the new world, which this new woman gravitates towards.
What about your links with architecture? You invited Rem Koolhaas, one of today's most conceptual architects, to design the new Repossi flagship store...
We have asked Rem to redesign the boutique for us and at the same time we have also been working together on a jewellery collaboration that is coming out very soon. When he saw the ring, his first reaction was: "This is architecture!" Which is true, but jewellery and architecture do not have the same type of engineering, because we work on a miniature scale. When creating jewellery we don't just draw something, but we calculate every millimetre - that makes the process quite similar to architecture. We re-use certain sizes, shapes and measurements from one collection to another, so there are rules and systems that come back. That's a little bit unusual in jewellery, I would say, because normally a collection is a parure: a necklace, a bracelet and a pair of earrings. Whereas, like architects, we start with shape and design.
Who is your perfect client?
I think it's a woman who isn't afraid of change and who is trying different things that resonate with her. She is also sensitive to a certain narrative. In our jewellery we use a lot of codes that come through collective memory, for example, the codes of ancient African tribes. So our client is a woman who responds to that and who wants to have a certain narrative in what she wears, a certain soul in the pieces.
Whom would you like to see wearing your jewellery?
I was very lucky to meet a lot of interesting people through my work. For example, I met photographer Cindy Sherman; she is a good friend and also my client, and she wears a lot of our jewellery. For me this has been an incredible connection that she actually responded to my work in a specific way. I'm working with Rem Koolhaas at the moment, but he can't wear our jewellery just yet [laughs]. So there are a lot of amazing and inspiring people around me, and it's a dream come true to work with them.
Gaia Repossi answers the famous Marcel Proust questionnaire:
What is your idea of perfect happiness?
What is your greatest fear?
To have no fear. When you have no fear, you also have no feelings, which means you are no longer alive.
What is the trait you most deplore in yourself?
I am too stubborn and I jump into things too fast.
What is the trait you most deplore in others?
I don't know... It's hard to judge people. The important thing is not to expect too much.
Which living person do you most admire?
What is your greatest extravagance?
What is your current state of mind?
I'm excited by change.
What is the most over-rated virtue?
Being too polite, which stops you from saying what you should say.
On what occasion would you lie?
Not to hurt someone.
What do you dislike about your appearance?
I don't know... My nose?
Which living person do you dislike?
What is the quality you like most in men?
What is the quality you most dislike in men?
What is the quality you like most in women?
The ability to do several things at the same time.
What is the quality you most dislike in women?
Lack of stability.
When and where were you the happiest?
I'm very happy right now!
Which talent would you most like to possess?
I would like to be a better painter or maybe a writer. I can write but it's very messy.
What do you consider to be your greatest achievement?
Going ahead with life and work without being afraid of failure.
If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing - what would you be?
A bird. Just to be able to go anywhere when I need to.
Where would you most love to live?
By the ocean.
What is your most treasured possession?
A pendant that my grandfather gave me. It's a pendant that he designed a long time ago and he kept it, it has my initials on it.
What is your favourite book?
The Sad Tropics by Claude Lévi-Strauss. It's an anthropological and philosophical novel that has a lot of narration on the future of the Third World.
What is your favourite thing to do?
Painting and travelling - but not for work!
What do you most value in your friends?
The support that I get from them.
Who are your heroes in real life?
I think that the ability to initiate change is important, so I admire people who are not afraid to change themselves and the world around them. What you see happening lately with new technology, a president of African-American descent in the States, women winning elections - these are the heroes.
What are your favourite names?
I studied archaeology and anthropology so I like names like Prometey, Antigone, Andromede, Alexander... Those are the names that make me dream.
What do you dislike most of all?
What is your greatest regret?
To not have trusted my imagination and my intuition. I've trusted them a lot, but not enough.
What are you dreaming about?
To find balance in life.
How would you like to die?
By the ocean.
What is your motto in life?
Do not be afraid of change.
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