Buro city guide: Positano

Buro city guide: Positano

La dolce vita

Site: Anna McClelland

Jewellery designer Lucy Folk has just returned from soaking up all the Amalfi Coast has to offer. Here, she shares Positano's new hotspots

Being fortunate enough to escape the grips of Melbourne's freezing winter, I can happily say I've been able to colour my passport with many experiences during Europe's long, hot summer. One of my favourites being Italy! There's just something in the air there that makes it hard to resist a second (or third... or fourth...) trip.

And one of my favourite places in the country of l'amore? The jewel in the crown of the Amalfi Coast, Positano. The cascading colourful houses, the friendly locals who should be sick of the tourists but welcome them with big smiles - it's romantic, the weather is always perfect and the vistas can't really be beaten. I can't say I leave feeling rejuvenated (that must have something to do with the endless days that turn into nights!) but I do leave knowing I want to go back. 

It's a place to celebrate life and revel in the glorious surroundings. Plus it's on the Med so you don't have to think about sharks - you can submerge in the sea for the entire day with a spritz in hand! Heaven. These are a few of my Positano hotspots.

Related story: 26 of the most iconic beaches in the world

Where to stay

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 1)

Positano has myriad accommodation options to suit any budget - it just takes a bit of research! If you want the ultimate in luxury, my favourite hotel is the outstanding Le SirenuseLocated in the centre of town, it is honestly one of the best hotels I have ever stayed in - a luxurious refuge from the chaos on the streets in summer. The building itself is an 18th century villa owned by the same family for two centuries. The Sirenuse fragrances waft through the air, the staff attend to your every wish and you can't help but fall in love with this place. 

I often rate a hotel by their breakfast and this one is up there! Who can resist buffalo mozzarella for breakfast, sitting on the terrace relishing that breathtaking view. They even do green juices, which are hard to come by in Italy. Every place to drink and dine in the hotel is equally special. It's all thanks to owners Antonio and Carla Sersale, who I'm fortunate enough to know and who breathe so much life and passion into everything they do.

  • Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30
  • 84017 Positano (SA) Italia
  • +39 089 875066

Related story: The 5 hottest beach destinations you've never heard of


Where to go for lunch

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 2)

One of the reasons I keep returning to Positano is Da Adolfo. Nestled in the corner of a fabulous beach in Laurito, it's around a 10-minute boat ride from Positano. To arrive you have to look for the boat with the red fish down at the port in Positano.  It comes every half hour and the journey there is part of the charm. Motoring past the big yachts and looking back at Positano from the sea is magnificent.

Da Adolfo is run by Sergio, whose father was the eponymous Adolfo. His team of crazy staff run up and down the stairs barefoot to the kitchen in the cliff where they create to-die-for food! The restaurant has a beach club with rickety old sun lounges that reflect the history of this iconic place - it's nice to imagine all of the different characters that have sunned themselves here. 

You must book as this place has garnered a loyal following of foreigners and locals who can't help but come back time after time for the melted mozzarella on lemon leaves or the mussels. White wine with peaches is a specialty too - you only live once so make the most of it! We often leave lunch at around 7pm when the last boat leaves for Positano after having a very long day swimming and gorging ourselves. Don't expect silver service - it's shabby chic but you won't be disappointed, I promise. Try to keep it a secret as it's too good to share this gem with the world. 

Via Laurito, 40, 84017 Positano, Italia
+39 089875022

Related story: Pack your bags: these are the world's 50 best restaurants

Where to get a drink

1. Franco's Bar

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 3)

This is the brand new bar attached to Le Sirenuse - a tribute to Antonio's late father, who passed away earlier this year. It's a place to celebrate the good life and toast a life well lived. Filled with art by local artisans, it's very chic in a relaxed environment with extraordinary vistas of town. 

  • Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30
  • 84017 Positano (SA) Italia
  • +39 089 875066

2. Snack Bar L'Aternativa 

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 4)

A local haunt on the port, this is a simple granita stand that serves very cheap drinks and mixes a mean lemon granita which is extra lethal mixed with tequila or vodka! On Friday and Saturdays there's a crowd and it's nice to sit around on the pier and chat to the locals. It doesn't get started until around 11pm and it's the perfect spot for a low key drink after a long day on the beach... you don't even have to change out of your swimmers. Watch out for DJ Crapola in Summer - she's from Australia and spins some sweet tunes. 

Related story: Top 10: the world's most luxurious nightclubs

Best place for dinner

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 5)

Da Vincenzo is the best local restaurant in town. Family run, it was started over 50 years ago by Grandpa Vincenzo and now his nephew - also called Vincenzo - runs the restaurant. It's fun, sometimes hectic but always fabulous. Although the emphasis is on fish, you have to try the pasta with ragu, it's incredible. Also, the pannacotta with wild strawberries is heavenly! Reserve a table on the street if there aren't more than four of you and watch the world go by. Just be careful of your toes -  the narrow streets can be dangerous for stray feet. 

Via Pasitea 172/178, 84017 Positano
+39 089 875 128

Related story: The 13 most expensive hotels in the world


Best day trip 

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 6)

If you want to rent a boat, I would suggest taking one for the day and slowly making your way to Nerano.  It's about an hour and a half on a very slow boat from Positano and you can swim at many of the beaches along the way. Pack some wine and fresh fruit and you can have a picnic or stop at Lo ScoglioNerano is between Capri and Positano and it's a pretty little village with a beach and a handful of B&B's and restaurants.

Lo Scoglio is fantastic. Broad beans, eggplant, spinach, escarole - you name it, they have it and it's all grown in their vegetable garden. The restaurant is on the water and there's a giant fish tank in the middle of the restaurant. The staff fish the lobsters out with their hands, which is quite the feat and regularly gets applauded by patrons. Order the famous zucchini pasta. The fresh cherry tomato pasta is also hard to beat. This is a foodie's paradise. 

Piazza delle Sirene, 15, 80061, Massa Lubrense, Napoli
+39 081 808 10 26

Related story: Hot spot: The Philippines' Boracay is the ideal tropical getaway


Where to party

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 7)

Carved out of a tower at the east end of Spiaggia Grande, Music on the Rocks is the spot for dancing. After many visits to Positano I finally went here on my most recent trip and it was great. The music was familiar and festive and I ended up on the podium with the dancers, which is a scary thought but I loved every minute of it! It's best to go late. There were smoke machines, confetti cannons and a lot of gyrating Italians! It's cheesy but fun. 

via Grotte dell'Incanto, 51, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
+39 089 875874

Related story: Buro city guide: Ibiza

Where to shop

Buro city guide: Positano (фото 8)

Carla Sersale carefully curates a selection of glassware, resort wear, hats, cushions and famous fragrances in her wonderful shop, Emporio Sirenuse, which is just a hop, skip and a jump from the entrance of Le Sirenuse. The boutique is always filled with colour and texture so you can't walk past without feeling tempted. The men's boardshorts are the best in the Med and Carla's kaftans fly out the door. 

As of next year they will stock my wares too which I am very excited about (just another excuse to come back again!). So don't forget to match your kaftan with one of my clutches or shade your eyes from the sun with my sunnies! 

  • Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30
  • 84017 Positano (SA) Italia
  • +39 089 875066

Related stories:
Buro city guide: Amsterdam

Buro city guide: New York
Buro city guide: Tel Aviv

Related articles

Buro 24/7 Selection