We associate Guillaume with ultra-formal fine dining - the legendary three-hatted Guillaume at Bennelong or his newer venture, the two-hatted Guillaume in Paddington - but that's not to say the lauded French chef can't do casual. He drank his first Australian beer at the Four in Hand many moons ago, and this year, he's taking the helm of the eastern suburbs institution.

The highly anticipated Four in Hand by Guillaume has now opened its doors, with new head chef Darrell Felstead working alongside Brahimi. Don't go expecting a French degustation - Brahimi is keeping things classic, with reinvented favourites and the kind of contemporary gastro-pub fare that Sydney does so well.

What to expect from Paddington's revamped Four in Hand

On the menu? Sophisticated dishes like pork hock and parsley terrine, lamb rump with confit of baby eggplant, hummus and mint, and blue eye trevally with sweet corn and clams. The dessert offering includes peach tart with peach ice-cream, a dish of strawberries, sable and sheep's yoghurt sorbet with peppermint tea jelly and a chocolate cookie with milk gelato. In a word: yum.

The Four in Hand by Guillaume, 105 Sutherland St, Paddington, NSW.

What to expect from Paddington's revamped Four in Hand