Anna Thai was a casualty of attrition on the King Street/Enmore Road strip. There were just too many restaurants serving up the same cuisine to a population whose tastes had strayed. It died like it had lived - quietly. In recent weeks, however, a thick black felt curtain had been hung to cover the entire window and many locals assumed it was now being occupied by a group of video-gaming students who didn't mind waking up smelling of tom yum for the foreseeable future.

Then the banging started and one night, a bouncer appeared to be guarding the black curtain. Lo and behold, the team behind Earl's Juke Joint - itself housed in the old Betta Meats butcher around the corner - had conjured just what the area didn't know it needed: a tiki bar. And not just a tiki bar but one with a Twin Peaks theme. Because, well, the inner west.

Push back the fabric and you'll be greeted by a handsome mahogany bar stretching half the room, cosy tealit tables up the back and a friendly "aloha" from a mixologist in a vintage Hawaiian shirt so ironic it's been in and out of fashion half a dozen times.

Enmore's got a (hidden) new tiki bar!

If you like your bars, minimal, detached and uber cool, this isn't for you. The bar is stacked with hurricane lamps, ceramic glasses resembling angry Polynesian gods (or hungover hipsters) and liqueurs you've probably never heard of but would do well to meet.

There is a well-curated catalogue of natural wines to be had but it's the cocktails that reign supreme. Go large and hard with the Scorpion Bowl - a mini punch bowl for two blending rum, gin, cognac and citrus. The menu states it "has more Sting than the Police". Google the joke now because after a few sips your manual dexterity will be delightfully impaired.

If the idea of a shared cocktail doesn't quite sit right, the Zombie-inspired Romero - cleverly named after horror director George Romero - is a quartet of rums, grapefruit juice and enough absinthe to set alight. Which they gleefully do.

We hear that food is on the way, as well as cocktail served out of a giant clam, and if the early response is anything to go by, you want to get there early and stay late.

Jacoby's Tiki Bar, 154 Enmore Road, Enmore. Cocktails from $20. 
Open 5pm - 12am Sunday - Thursday, 5pm - 1am Friday & Saturday.

Enmore's got a (hidden) new tiki bar!