Shu Uemura's creative director says you're doing foundation all wrong
He's our generation's Shu Uemura - after joining the cult-status make-up brand all the way back in 1988 under the guidance of the Japanese make-up master himself, Uchiide-San steadily worked his way up to be crowned his successor. Regularly found backstage at Viktor & Rolf, Karl Lagerfeld and Maison Kitsune shows, this week, Uchiide was bunkered down with Jesinta Campbell, Jessica Gomes, Gemma Ward and Montana Cox backstage for David Jones.
Armed with the new Shu Uemura Vision of Beauty Vol. 03 - Nude Atelier collection, which launches this week, Uchiide talked us through the real secrets to that natural, dewy glow we perennially crave, plus his expert contouring and foundation tips (be warned: they're not at all what you'd expect). In other words, consider this essential reading for your summer beauty look...
What's the secret to a long-lasting but radiant make-up look?
Base make-up is key to a dewy look. I always start with the Shu Uemura Glow Creator, it gives a healthy glow to the skin. You use it after you've applied skincare, it's a primer. Then after foundation, set with translucent powder - I'm using our new Stage Performer Invisible Powder because it doesn't matter what skin tone you are, it turns invisible. I use limited make-up and a light powder to set for a long-lasting look.
What are your failsafe foundation tricks?
You have to be careful about the amount of foundation you use. Everyone seems to think that foundation should be applied all over the face, evenly, but compare the different areas, say the forehead to the cheeks. For perfect natural make-up, you have to be careful about how much foundation you apply to areas where skin in thin - you can build on the cheeks, but on the T-Zone you have to be careful. Put less foundation on your nose and forehead. Everyone is scared about their foundation not lasting on the nose, so they put a lot, but it looks heavy. Heavy coverage means it's easier to melt off - the less product, the less likely it is to melt. It's more like a second skin.
How do you achieve a natural contour?
You have to feel for your cheekbone, for the crease just under it, and apply the contouring work along there. Then blend along the cheekbone and after that, use powder blush on top. For a soft contour, I'm using the Nude Atelier Collection Tint in Gelato in Nudy Brown, which sets semi-matte and natural, then cheeks are brightened and further defined with blush. I also use the Nudy Brown tint on the lips.
What's the key to looking polished but not overdone?
You should always focus on just one point. You have to decide what you're going to focus on - if it's eyes, then lips should be simple. If you're doing a strong eye, leave the brows alone. For tonight, I'm focusing on the eyes as the unique point so I'm keeping the brows natural, neat and clean.
Shu Uemura has so many cult-status products, but what's your favourite?
The cleansing oil. To keep skin in good condition, I think it's important to follow everyday care. Even for me, I don't wear make-up, but I use the cleansing oil every day and every night. Then lotion, then essence, then moisturiser, you need to keep using it. I also love our new facial oil, Skin Perfector - the texture isn't greasy and it leaves the skin soft. It's really helpful under make-up.
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