Return of the perm: the It-girl hair trend of 2018
Girls with curls
Sleek and straight is out and wild manes are back, baby! At least according to the latest hair trend to appear across the fashion month circuit and posted through the Insta-feeds of our favourite It-girls. The '80s inspired hair aesthetic was seen on the runway of the Lulu Guinness AW '18 LFW show. "80s hair is having a real revival at the moment, so we have created a twisted, disco look that feels free and bouncy, with great height and volume," explains Zoe Irwin the Brit hair stylist behind the 'do who cites the film Desperately Seeking Susan (1985) - the early Madonna vehicle that celebrates cocky, vintage street style - as her key inspiration. "The hair looks and feels glossy and healthy, as opposed to the original crispy curls of the era."
The 80s 'perm' trend has been percolating throughout last year, from street culture and social media all the way to the red carpet, as texture and movement evolves beyond mere beachy waves to honest-to-god curls.
U.S. Vogue has called statement curls 'the new cool girl calling card'. Lily Collins showcased ringlets and big, big hair at Cannes; Ashley Graham and J. Lo playfully rocked a curly quiffed chignon (think Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman (1990); and even Bella and Gigi Hadid have donned their own take on the tight curly 'do.
The look is straight out of the Fatal Attraction (1987) playbook; starring Glenn Close as the original bunny boiler mistress with wild curls (worn with smoky eyes and nude lip), denoting the cray cray of 1980s male collective nightmare - and Close has never looked hotter. Cher's outrageously lush cascade of curls in Moonstruck (1987), and Jennifer Gray as Baby in Dirty Dancing (1987) took the perm to it's extreme.
Now, after a fifteen-year reign of the straight blowdry (with a side order of clip-in extensions), defined curls are hot, new and fun again. It's wavy-haired lasses' time to shine. There is also a street-tinged defiance to embracing natural waviness instead of taming it into submission.
Influential creatives are proudly posting their curl-cloud hair from Lollapalooza, The Emmys and the beach. Canadian photographer Petra Collins (of controversial American Apparel imagery fame) brushes her curls out as part of her nonchalant, bratty aesthetic. A new crop of ethnically diverse influencers such as Lion Babe soul singer Jillian Hervey, poet and artist Cleo Wade, and HeyFranHey blogger Francheska add a gracenote of self-acceptance to beauty's most freewheeling style. Paris-based model and food blogger Coralie Jouhier is feted for her wild mass of 'urban bush babe' red curls and stylistic freedom.
We curly tops who tame our hair for the workweek can love a trend that we are born to showcase 24/7. But the right technique, tools and products allow those with smoother texture to walk on the wild side too.
The very defined curls at Lulu Guinness are created by twisting and wrapping hair around the GHD Curve Creative Curl Wand - rather than flat wrapping - to create a spiral effect. To complete the funky Desperately Seeking Susan ragamuffin, street urchin style, hair is twisted up at the nape of the neck and tipped over onto the crown of the head, then topped with a turban headband. The look is a commitment to total curl says Irwin. "For this season, we are curling the full length of the hair for the ultimate bubble curl rather than leaving ends soft or straight like we have seen in previous seasons."
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