Cream of the crop: how to do the new celeb It-haircut
When Cara D, Kristen Stewart and Katy Perry rock the same haircut? We call that a trend. By Cleo Glyde
When not one but three celebrities from the fashion, pop and acting worlds emerge on the Fashion Week FROW with the same striking haircut it sends a beauty message like a thunderbolt. Witness singer Katy Perry, Certain Women actress Kristen Stewart and Brit top model-turned-actress Cara Delevingne all sported high-voltage hair this week at Chanel's Autumn/Winter 2017 couture collection - the platinum blonde crop: short, not sweet.
Any hairdresser will tell you that women (not just A-listers) usually adopt a dramatic hair makeover to echo a big shift in their personal lives. Katy Perry chopped her lob and went platinum after breaking up with actor Orlando Bloom, launching a new album and publicly declaring herself over the Katy Perry persona, black bangs and all.
Kristen Stewart is moving on from her romantic heroine past in Twilight, the franchise that made her a star, at warp speed with a role as mechanical engineer in Underwater, hence the platinum buzz cut: "I have wanted to do it for a long time," she told U.S. show Today. "I am game... It feels amazing."
Cara Delevingne's wild child persona couldn't be cooler - with 40 million Instagram followers to amuse, a new song collaboration with Pharrell Williams and a role alongside Rihanna in time travel film Valerian a radical change is perfectly on-brand. They join the pixie pantheon of Charlize Theron, Michelle Williams, Keira Knightly and Carey Mulligan who have all redefined sexy, then cranked up the look with peroxide.
"The trend is a fusion of strength with femininity", explains Danny Puopolo, creative director at Melbourne's CBD salon Rakis on Collins. "Think of the power of a ballerina who is incredibly athletic yet feminine at the same time. The look says 'I'm not scared to expose myself; there is no hair to hide behind'. That kind of confidence is incredibly sexy and charismatic." It has the impact of Britney's big hair-gone moment - without the emotional breakdown. Japanese brand Shu Uemura and GSM (global style network) call it the 'Prima Warrior' trend and predict it will be one of the biggest looks for 2018. But why now?
"Young people are pushing back at gender conformity; they support marriage equality and transgender issues, embrace boldness in their beliefs and don't want to be put into a bracket - that has had a knock-on effect in beauty." The colour specialist also sees the platinum pixie as a style reboot. "Having fun, creative hair was huge in the '80s and '90s, when women were cutting hair shorter and wearing it bolder - a lot more wash n' go. After a decade of the long, beachy look and extensions this is like a rebirth. We started with the blunt bob, the lob, shorter again with the chin length bob. Now we're ready for theultimate, bold statement."
If inspired to take the plunge, Puopolo recommends consulting with a stylist first. "I have a lot of women asking for the crop and these celebrities will inspire even more in the 16-30 range. Obviously it looks fantastic on someone with beautiful, standout features and that idealised oval face shape, but it's not essential."
Who shouldn't do it? "Anyone with big, roundish chipmunk cheeks would be a bit too exposed. The hairline is the most important thing - if it goes far back on the forehead area then don't go for the extreme buzzcut, opt for a Katy Perry pixie instead with a little volume on top so it's softer." He also warns clients with thick hair that growing it out will be tough. "The buzzcut and pixie itself is fantastic on coarse hair but I ask clients, how long are you committing to this haircut? They'll get puffiness and frizziness as soon as it gets grows out."
Personality is the bottom line. "If you want to be dramatic and shake everything up then you have the right attitude and will pull it off."
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