Napoleon Perdis is heralding a return to the Golden Age - at least in terms of sparkle. The look for summer, he tells us, is bronzed and beautiful - sateen skin, peachy pink cheeks and gold lids. In town to create the beauty looks for the Myer Spring/Summer 15/16 fashion launch, he gave Buro his best tips for achieving the look on your own, from the season's essential products to the best techniques. And in case you were wondering, the make-up maestro's favourite catchphrase, not to prime is a crime, is more relevant this season than ever.
The key trends to try:
FOR SKIN: "The look is jetset without the sun tanning. Skin this season is hydrated, that's the key to a luminous complexion, and really fresh, with a sateen finish. It's barely there - use tinted moisturiser and conceal with my Foundation Stick only if needed - then on the cheeks it's all about reflective contouring and strobing for a subtle touch of glam. It's no longer about chocolate bar contouring, but highlighting the areas you want to bring out - it's a kind of automatic contouring. For the Myer look, I've used my Light Switch Luminizer Palette to add bronze, soft pinks and gold to cheeks - all in cream formulations to give that luminous touch and feel."
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FOR EYES AND LIPS: "For eyes, to make them pop I bronze the lids with Eye Dust in Copper Element and line using luxe gold eyeliner - for Myer I used my China Doll Gell Eyeliner in Double Happiness to evoke that Golden Age of glamour. And for lips, you can either go a strong opaque lip colour in orange or red or peach, or the exact opposite - a very natural, nude caramel colour. I finished Myer with a simple slick of Luminous Lip Veil in Caramel Kiss."
FOR BROWS AND LASHES: "The look is less brow than previous seasons - you still want a well-managed and groomed brow but it's less strong than before. And lots of lashes. My technique is I do brows and mascara first. Once you frame the face with those, then you don't really need to worry about going any further. You might only do concealer and lip and a bit of highlighting for radiance and you're done."
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How to tailor the look to your skin tone:
"Because it's all about radiance, this look just works on every demographic and skin tone. Using the Light Switch palette, you can choose which colours to use and where to tailor it to light or very dark complexions. It's even great on mature skin since it reflects the light and gives skin luminosity."
The three products you need:
"Serum, primer and mascara. Hydration is key - you need to prepare the skin to have it looking flawless and you can apply my Autopilot Napoleon Complex Skin Renewal Serum throughout the day to keep that sateen finish. Then you need my Autopilot Pre Foundation Primer - not to prime is a crime! It boosts radiance and gives foundation a fresh finish. Lastly, lashings of my Mesmer-Eyes mascara - you'll love it, it's the Mercedes Benz of mascaras and it has a '60s-style flat wand for volume and length and curl!"
His number one make-up tool:
"My Mega Powder brush and my acrylic brushes for foundation - a lot of of people go on about sable brushes, but a lot of people are allergic and it makes their eyes water. I have sable brushes too but my acrylic brushes give the same result and you won't react to them."
The beauty wisdom he gives his daughters:
"Removing make-up and cleansing. If you do that, then everything else falls into place. I can really tell the difference between women who do and don't cleanse, it's vital. My daughters know to do brows and mascara first and for school, that's all they do, except maybe some concealer. When they go out, they know how to work it from there. But they're young, so they don't need much."
The essential eye colours every woman should own:
"My Trench Coat eyeshadow - it's the perfect taupe - my loose dust in Copper Element and Starlight- it gives a gorgeous twinkle to cheeks, you can use it for strobing, and in the corner of the eye - it's a very J.Lo kind of look."
What he wishes women would stop doing:
"I wish that they would stop testing foundation on their jawline! It's an old, outdated trick. Your neck and jawline and décolletage are a completely different colour to your face! On the cheekbone is where to do it - it's the focus area of the face. Get that right and everything else falls into place."