With a career spanning eight years with Sephora, plus editorials for Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and V magazine, Gilbert Soliz has worked on the visages on many fanous beauties. And as Marc Jacobs Beauty's Global Makeup Artist, Gilbert doesn't just get to experiment with one of the most fashion-forward beauty brands around, he also works with pop culture icons and cool girls like Winona Ryder, Sky Ferreira, Charlotte Free and Kaia Gerber.
In Sydney recently to chat about the upcoming colour launches for early 2017, we quizzed him about the draping make-up trend, coloured eyeliner and his biggest pinch-me career moments.
You worked with Kaia Gerber in the Marc Jacobs Beauty campaign. What's she like?
She's super sweet. Super enthusiastic, energetic, professional - really fun to work with. Cindy picked her up exactly [on time]... at that young tender age you can only work a certain time. Cindy was very protective of her.
Does she look exactly like Cindy?
A younger version? Yeah, totally. I mean when you see her perform it's like wow - you're watching Cindy Crawford.
When will we get to see more of Kaia?
The first campaign around eyeliner [look out for the new Matte Highliner range] out in March.
You've also worked with Winona Ryder?
Winona is really cool. The character she plays in Beetlejuice, she's Lydia in real life! Really quirky, super cool, she kind of has a rocker attitude and vibe. She's carefree, super smart and very articulate. [And she has] so much knowledge when it comes to movies and pop culture.
Her face almost looks the same as it did in the '90s.
She has the smallest features. So when I did make-up on her it was like I was painting a doll. That was something that really stood out when I worked with Winona. She's a beauty icon.
The '80s is a big colour influence for Marc Jacobs Beauty next season, is there any trend we should be aware of?
There is a big evolution around contouring and strobing. Using colour to replace contour is something that a lot of people are grasping onto. It's a bit more fresh, feels more modern and not as dull as the traditional contour.
It's really exciting to see how it continues to evolve. It started with contouring, then strobing, then nontouring, now there's draping. It's exciting that Marc really started that beauty trend. You could see draping in the campaign that he shot with Kaia. Really strong unusual colour. It feels unconventional, but when you do it, it makes sense. It adds warmth and brings the face to life.
Any big colours for spring?
On the lips I feel that greige-y, lavender and soft pink is cool. Bold, liquid lips are still having a moment.
I want to say contour should be over. Social media is really guiding it but it doesn't necessarily live in the real world. I think we have to ride the wave because it takes you into fun creative spaces and allows you to explore those things which make make-up fun.
What are key products for spring?
Definitely the matte Highliners (below) and [coloured] mascara. Next spring is all about colour. Marc loves punctuating one feature. The rest of the features should be more subdued.
What's Marc like to work with?
Marc is so down to earth, really cool, extremely passionate. He loves packaging. He's definitely kinaesthetic - he has to touch and swatch - what's important to him is how it feels. He's very sensorial. But he wears different hats. I see the products from an artistry perspective and he sees them from a designer, so the moodboards and swatches... it's very interesting to see it from that angle. It's an amazing way to see a designer bridge fashion and beauty. For Marc it was natural evolution. To him, beauty is such an important element of getting dressed, when you're styling yourself.
Who's your favourite celeb or model to work with?
I love working on celebrities because you get to enhance or perfect their persona. Models are fun, but it's nice to enhance someone's personality. I'm going to go with Kylie Minogue because she's an Aussie and so sweet and endearing. We did make-up for the Met Gala but I've been a fan since I was a teen. Watching her movies and going to her concerts, she was exactly the person I was hoping she would be in real life. It was very refreshing to work with someone whose energy was cool, who loved make-up and who was daring - that was kind of a surreal moment.
The Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Matte Gel Eye Crayon, $36 and O!Mega Lash Voluminizing Mascara, $36 will be available at Sephora stores from March 16, 2017.